No way to till out of soil problem

What is in this article?:

• It is important to understand there is no single tillage tool, crop or management practice that will solve a soil quality problem. Building soil quality means managing the entire farming system — tillage and planting practices, cropping systems and rotations, harvest and traffic patterns.

Look for opportunities to reduce tillage

Look for opportunities to reduce tillage frequency and intensity, and use cover crops and manure to protect the environment, recycle nutrients and build stable soil aggregates. 

Managing the farming system to build soil quality

Tillage operations are important in many farming systems to prepare a seedbed; control weeds, insects and disease; manage soil compaction and crop residue; and incorporate soil amendments, so it may be difficult to reduce tillage operations in some cases.

But you can’t simply till your way out of a soil quality problem. Tillage can degrade soil quality by breaking down aggregate structure. Stable soil aggregates are created slowly by natural processes, but they can break down quickly under the action of tillage tools.

Look for opportunities to combine field operations and reduce tillage intensity when managing for soil quality. 

Soil compaction is the loss of pore space in the soil. Pore space is needed for drainage and oxygen exchange, root growth and efficient nutrient use. Tillage and traffic are the primary cause of most soil compaction.

Soil symptoms of compaction are crusting; a cloddy seedbed; standing water; and an absence of plant roots in the soil. Common plant symptoms are variable emergence; variable size; wilting; and yield decline.

Soil compaction can occur in all soils — including mucks and sandy soils; it can be shallow — in the normal tillage zone; deep — below the normal tillage zone, and is most likely in poorly drained, fine-textured soils.

Machinery can damage soil from compression, shear and vibration. Generally, 70 percent to 90 percent of tire sinkage and increase in soil bulk density occurs on the first pass. Repetitive traffic drives compaction deeper. 

Excessive tillage contributes to soil compaction, but strategic tillage is a fast and effective way to reduce compaction. Tillage can increase pore space in the root zone and improve infiltration and drainage, but tillage induced pores are not structurally stable and do not effectively resist traffic induced soil compaction.

After years of reduced-tillage, soil is more resilient and resistant to compaction from traffic, but it can be damaged quickly by working or driving on wet soil.

Natural processes alleviate compaction and improve soil quality


In the long-term, soil compaction can be reduced by natural processes that cause the soil to shrink and swell such as wetting and drying, and freezing and thawing.

Root growth helps fracture compacted soil. Plant roots and soil microbes produce exudates that form natural glue in forming stable soil aggregates. Earthworm activity inverts soil and creates channels for water infiltration and root growth. 

Reduce tillage intensity; add organic inputs — manure and cover crops

Reducing tillage intensity is important, but you can’t simply no-till your way out of a soil quality problem on the weathered, low organic matter, shallow top-soils characteristic of much of Michigan and the Great Lakes Region.

To have an impact in a reasonable period of time you also need additional organic inputs such as crop residue, manure and cover crops.

Cover crops protect the surface from wind and water erosion, recycle plant nutrients, improve water infiltration and add organic carbon to the soil.

Manure provides many of the same benefits. Both manure and cover crops increase organic matter and water holding capacity; improve aggregate stability and water infiltration; and decrease evaporation and soil bulk density.

Discuss this Article 6

Tim Gieseke (not verified)
on Dec 8, 2011

You may want to follow the tillage experiment conducted in southern Minnesota this fall. Many of us have not received rain since late July and after harvest most farmers did heavy tillage ripping out large chunks of adobe-style soil. Some fields look like they are covered with large, rugged bowling balls with about the same density. Tillage equipment was ripped apart - be cautious when buying used rippers and plows in the next few years. Some ag producers went back into the fields with discs and rollers, I imagine to put Humpty Dumpty back together again. I have only been farming 15 years, so I can't tell you how the soil will be this spring, but I could not bring myself to treat my ground like that. I went with a disc - and powdered up the top 4-5 inches.

RHH from Minnesota (not verified)
on Feb 22, 2012

The worst possible thing you did was to disc those huge lumps. Mother Nature has a way to soften those chunks, so leave well enough alone. By having a rough, rough surface, you will absorb all snow melt, future rains, as well as stopping some snow from blowing away in the winter. In the spring, the soil will be very mellow, just waiting for plants to grow. Pay more attention to what your older, successful farmers have been doing. Having a pretty field is not all that great for growing crops. Watching those huge, huge farmers is not always the right thing to do. They make their living on quantity, not quality. You will see that a rough, rough field in the spring, will have a much better seedbed after tilling, than your rock hard disced field. Some famers just make their fields smooth in the fall, so they can drive faster, and race against their neighbors, to see who can get done first in the spring.

I have farmer friends in Ohio who no-till everything, and their crops always out yield the neighbor's conventional planting. On top of that, they have no tillage equipment investment, and are not constantly uprooting 40 year old weeds seeds that remain in the ground. All they have are tractors to pull the planting equipment, spray equipment, a combine, grain trucks, grain augers and grain handling equip, etc. The first time I went into their machine shed, I could not believe how little machinery invertment they actually needed. No till does not work for everyone, especially in the northern climate, where the soils do not warm as fast in the spring, as soils in Ohio.

Good luck.

carl wayne hardeman (not verified)
on Jan 31, 2013

AMEN

Anonymous (not verified)
on Dec 14, 2011

Deep tillage if next season is dry will let moisture rise. And let water get away after a big rain. Powder 4-5 inches deep may look pretty but pretty doesn't always mean money. Watch ur neighbors sometime u might learn something.sometimes try a little of what ur neighbors r doing

carl wayne hardeman (not verified)
on Jan 31, 2013

Agreed and its counterintuitive but water will only penetrate 2-3 inches in tilled soil but untilled soil will soak up much more as the water enters the tiny soil structure channels left by last years decomposed roots.

carl wayne hardeman (not verified)
on Jan 31, 2013

Plant a cover crop of plants like parsnips and turnips and red clover and rye and turn cows and goats and pigs into it and watch them get fat and turn the soil into a nice organic mixture. Lets cows and goats graze then move them and let the pigs in.

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